Water Blades is proudly based in the United Kingdom. Each of our water blades and water feature products are manufactured in our fully equipped workshop in Rotherham, South Yorkshire. This not only supports local craftsmanship but also ensures high-quality control and faster lead times on bespoke orders.

Absolutely! We specialise in custom water features and can manufacture water blades to your exact specifications. Whether you're working on a garden design, a commercial landscaping project, or a unique home installation, we can help bring your vision to life. Simply get in touch with your requirements and we'll take care of the rest.

Yes, we stock a range of accessories including water pumps, filters, UV clarifiers and pipe and hose tail fittings, to aid in a smooth installation and upgrade of your space.

A water blade is a sleek, modern waterfall feature designed to produce a smooth, even flow of water. It's typically installed into a wall or structure and creates a clean, sheet-like cascade of water into a pond, pool, or reservoir. They're ideal for adding a contemporary and tranquil element to any outdoor or indoor space.

Water blades operate by pumping water through a rear or bottom inlet, which then flows out evenly across the blade's lip to form a consistent waterfall. The key to their smooth flow lies in their internal design, which helps spread the water evenly and eliminate splashing.

Start by considering the size of your space, your aesthetic preferences, and the level of maintenance you’re comfortable with. If you want something modern and striking, a stainless-steel water blade may be ideal. If you’d like something a little more traditional, one of our waterfalls could be the right avenue for you. Feel free to contact us for personalised advice—we're always happy to help.

A water blade, waterfall, and spillway are all stainless-steel water features used in modern landscaping and pool design, but they differ in function and appearance.

A water blade delivers a sleek, smooth sheet of water through a narrow
opening, ideal for creating a clean, architectural effect.

A waterfall in this context is typically a wider, more dramatic flow over a ledge or tiered structure, designed to imitate cascading water with a natural or bold presence.

 A spillway, while similar to a blade, generally allows water to gently flow or overflow from one level to another—often used in pools or ponds for water circulation and aesthetic transition.

 The key differences lie in the volume, shape, and purpose of the water flow: blades are about precision, waterfalls emphasise flow and movement, and spillways focus on gentle, functional overflow with a minimalist touch.

All our products are custom made to order meaning lead times can vary based on factors including the design and current production demands.

Our standard range of water blades is currently on a lead time of 7-10 working days. Lead times for custom orders typically range from 2 to 6 weeks, with continuous communication to update you throughout the process.

Water Blades offers free delivery for all UK orders.

European deliveries start from £15.

For international deliveries, delivery charges start from £23.99.

We use trusted courier services for all deliveries and provide tracking information upon dispatch.

Yes, we offer delivery worldwide. European and International Deliveries may be subject to VAT and Duties which are not charged by us and may be charged by the courier to you directly. We accept no liability for these charges and the charge is between the customer and the courier.  

For further information on international delivery times, please contact our team.

While we don't currently offer installation or maintenance services directly, we’re more than happy to provide advice and support. Our FAQ section on Installation and Build is a great starting point or you can contact our team on 0800 488 0920 for tailored support.

To set up your water blade, you’ll typically need:

• A wall
• A water blade of your chosen size
• A reservoir
• A suitable pump
• Filter and UV Clarifier (optional)
• Hose and fittings
• A power source (mains or solar)

We supply a variety of water feature accessories, alongside our Water Blade and Waterfall range. We also have a range of full kits containing everything you need to get your water feature up and running successfully.

Water blades operate in a 'closed loop' system, meaning the same water is continuously circulated by a pump without needing a mains water supply, aside from the occasional top-up. To keep the pump submerged and allow for splashing and evaporation, you'll need a reservoir that holds a sufficient volume of water.

If you already have a pond and are building a wall at its edge, the pond can serve as your reservoir. However, if you're creating a stand-alone water feature, you'll need to incorporate a separate reservoir into your design.

You have a few options when it comes to your water container for your water blade. You can use a pre-existing pond as your reservoir and build a wall for the blade, or you can build a custom container using one of the methods below.

Purpose-Built Reservoir:

A purpose-built reservoir is a durable plastic container designed to house the water supply for a water feature. It typically comes with a safety grid and a pump access hatch for easy maintenance. The reservoir can be buried or enclosed within landscaping to remain hidden from view. The pump is usually submersed within the tub, and the safety grid is covered with decorative stones to create an attractive, natural-looking surface.

Hole and Rubber Pond Liner:

A simple method involves digging a hole and lining it with a protective underlay followed by a rubber pond liner, effectively creating a small pond. While this approach is straightforward and easy to implement, careful thought should be given to how the edges are finished, as the exposed black liner can
be visually unappealing. Adding decorative elements such as stones, plants, or edging materials can help disguise the perimeter and enhance the overall appearance.

Concrete and Block Method:

For a more versatile and long-lasting reservoir, consider constructing one using a poured concrete base with walls built from concrete blocks. Once the structure is complete, the interior should be sealed with a waterproof rendering, then finished with three layers of pond-specific paint to ensure a watertight seal. Though this method may require professional help, the result is a solid and polished feature. To maintain a neat appearance, it’s recommended to embed a 25mm stainless steel pipe through the back wall, extending about 3 inches on either side. This allows for easy connection of a 25mm flexible pond hose to the pump and water blade, with hose clips used to secure everything in place. This setup keeps the plumbing subtle and positioned low within the reservoir.

As a rule of thumb, your reservoir should hold at least 3–5 times the volume of water your blade will hold at any one time. For example, if your blade is 600mm wide and flows at 3,000 litres per hour, aim for a reservoir capacity of around 150–250 litres.

Water blades can be mounted at various heights depending on your desired effect. We recommend 1m above your reservoir as the perfect height, to ensure a smooth flow and uninterrupted sheet of water off the blade. For a dramatic fall, mount it higher, however, keep in mind the pump’s max head rating and potential splash zone; higher blades may require a more powerful pump and a larger reservoir.

Yes, we supply a range of hose and fitting
kits compatible with our water blades. These are available in various sizes and lengths to suit your installation needs. Check the accessories section on our website for more details.

A weekly wipe-down with a microfibre cloth and distilled water is recommended. More thorough cleaning may be needed if stains or buildup appear.

Stainless steel resists rust, but it’s not immune. Surface rust or staining often results from a lack of regular cleaning, exposure to airborne contaminants, hard water, or salt.

These are usually from hard water containing high levels of calcium or magnesium. Over time, they can dull the finish.

Use a non-metallic abrasive pad (like nylon), scrub in the direction of the grain, and use a stainless-steel cleaner or a baking soda paste.

No, avoid these. Chlorine can corrode stainless steel. Use pH-neutral or stainless-steel-specific cleaners instead.

Drain and dry it completely, cover it with a weatherproof cover, and optionally apply a silicone-based stainless-steel protector.

Yes, salt exposure accelerates corrosion. Clean more frequently and take preventative measures if using saltwater or living near the coast.

Yes. Constant splashing can leave marks and deposits. Wipe these areas regularly to maintain their appearance.

Clean thoroughly, then apply a stainless steel polish or protector to restore shine and add protection.

Choose a pump based on your water blade’s width and the height it will be mounted at. Generally, you need about 1,250 litres per hour per 100mm of blade width. Look for a reliable, submersible pump
with the right flow rate and max head height.

To make life easier, you can use our Pump Calculator to work out the perfect pump for your water feature.

Whether you’re looking for an energy saving option like the Boyu Eco Pump, or something more versatile like the highly powerful Evolution Aqua Varipump, we’ve got you covered.

For the best results and water quality, it’s recommended to run your pump continuously. This helps prevent stagnation, supports filtration systems, and keeps your water feature looking and sounding great.

Flow rate refers to the amount of water that passes through the water feature over a period of time. It is usually measured in litres per minute (L/min) or gallons per minute (GPM).

The flow rate determines:

• How strong or thick the water stream looks
• How far the water projects out from the blade
• How much water your pump needs to supply

A higher flow rate means more water, which creates a fuller, more dramatic waterfall effect. A lower flow rate gives a gentler, more delicate flow.

The term max head describes the maximum height a pump can push water vertically. For example, if a pump has a Max Head of 5 metres, it means it can raise water up to 5 metres above the surface of the pond or reservoir. However, what’s often missed is that at this full height, the pump’s flow rate drops to zero—there’s pressure but no volume being delivered.

As water travels upward through pipework, gravity and resistance cause the flow rate to steadily decrease. That’s why it’s essential to take height into account when selecting a pump—especially for raised water features like wall cascades or tall fountains. For instance, a pump rated at 10,000 litres per hour with a Max Head of 5 metres may only deliver around 5,000 litres per hour at a lift of 2.5 metres (halfway up its range). The higher the lift, the lower the output.

One common misunderstanding is how to measure the vertical lift. It’s not from the base of the pond, but from the water surface to the highest point the water needs to reach—like the top of a raised bowl or spillway. So, whether your pond is 40cm or 2 metres deep, the measurement always starts from the surface level, not the bottom.

Friction loss refers to the loss of water pressure as it travels through pipes, hoses, and fittings. The longer and narrower the hose—and the more bends it has—the more friction loss you’ll experience. Always factor this into your pump selection.

There is a multitude of reasons for your pump to stop running, and thankfully, most of them are quite easy to fix. Common issues include a clogged intake or impeller, power supply interruption, faulty wiring or a damaged cable. Your first port if call would be to run the below checks, before contacting your pump supplier for further testing repair or replacement.

Check the electrics. The problem could be as simple as a blown fuse or power cut. Check the wires for any knicks and cuts as well.

Disconnect the hose. If the hose or filter becomes completely blocked, it may seem like the pump has stopped working because no water is coming out. To check, disconnect the hose from the pump and test it again. If the pump runs normally, the blockage is likely somewhere further along the hose or filter.

Limescale. Build-up of limescale can cause the rotor to slow down and stall. This is easily rectified by submerging the pump in a bucket of descaler, either a pump specific solution or household kettle descaler is fine.

Blockage. Debris, like leaves and twigs, can get trapped in the rotor or impeller, causing them to jam. Dismantle the pump, removing the impeller if possible, and clear any blockages, then test again. Try to periodically clean the pump in order to avoid blockages from occurring.

Safety First! Always switch off and isolate the pump from the electrical source before attempting any checks and repairs. If you're unsure at any point, seek advice from a qualified electrician or professional installer. Avoid cutting or shortening the original electrical cable, as this can immediately void the manufacturer's warranty.

Solar pumps are eco-friendly and cost-effective long-term but typically offer lower flow rates and may be inconsistent in poor weather. Mains-powered pumps provide more reliable, powerful performance, especially for larger features or continuous use.

In pond and water feature systems, flooded suction means the pump’s inlet is continuously supplied with water by gravity. Most pond pumps require this setup because they can’t draw water uphill—they're not designed to create suction. This means that even if the pump is installed outside the pond, the inlet and piping must be positioned below the water level so water flows in naturally.

In contrast, self-priming pumps, like those used in swimming pools, can pull water into their inlets. However, they generally consume more energy and are less efficient than standard pond pumps. For systems running 24/7, a flooded suction pump is typically the better choice—not only for energy savings but also because they tend to operate more quietly.

If you're using a pond or open reservoir, a filter helps keep the water clean by removing debris and preventing algae growth. For smaller features or pondless setups, filtration might be optional depending on usage and water quality.

Green water is usually caused by microscopic algae. It’s very common and can be managed with a combination of UV clarifiers, good filtration, and regular maintenance.

If you already have a filter and UV clarifier installed, there are a few factors to check. A UV clarifier must be correctly sized and maintained. Make sure the water flow rate matches the unit’s capacity, the bulb is working properly, and that it’s not clogged or bypassed. Also check your overall pond balance - excess nutrients or sunlight can encourage algae.

A pond filter removes physical debris and houses beneficial bacteria to break down organic waste. A UV clarifier uses ultraviolet light to kill algae cells, preventing green water. They work best when used together. Take a look at our full range here.

Pond designs can vary significantly, so it's essential to select a filter that suits the specific needs of your setup. One of the most important factors is whether your pond contains fish. Species like goldfish or Koi Carp introduce a biological load, which means your filtration system needs to be more powerful than one used for a purely ornamental pond with no fish.

As a general guideline:

• A pond with small fish (e.g., goldfish, shubunkins, Orfe, Comets, or Rudd) requires twice the filtration capacity of a fish-free pond.
• A pond with Koi Carp requires approximately four times the filtration of an ornamental pond.

When choosing a filter, start by asking:

1. How much water does my pond hold?

2. Will I be keeping fish—and if so, what type?

Other important considerations include sun exposure and water depth. Shallow ponds exposed to full sunlight can heat up quickly, increasing the risk of algae growth. In these cases, a stronger filtration system may be necessary to maintain water clarity and health.

To calculate your pond's volume:

• Measure the maximum length × width × depth in metres
• Multiply these three numbers together, then multiply by 1000 to get the volume in litres

(Example: 2.0m × 1.5m × 1.0m × 1000 = 3,000 litres)

We have complete filtration kits available that include pumps and UV clarifiers, as well as standalone filters—ideal if you already have a compatible pump or UV unit.

You can never over-filter a pond, but you can under-filter it. Investing in a system that comfortably handles your pond’s volume and fish load will ensure better long-term performance and water quality.

Feel free to contact us for personalised recommendations.

As a general guide, UV power requirements are:

• A minimum of 1W per 1,000 litres of water for ornamental ponds (no fish).
• Approximately 2W per 1,000 litres of water for lightly stocked fish ponds.
• At least 4W per 1,000 litres for Koi or heavily stocked ponds.
• Larger or extremely heavily stocked ponds may require more powerful systems.

Ultraviolet (UV) clarification needs to be increased for fish and Koi ponds because these inhabitants produce higher levels of waste, which in turn promotes more aggressive algae growth. It's always better to choose a UV Clarifier that is more powerful than you think you need, rather than one that is too weak. An underpowered unit won't be able to eliminate algae faster than it reproduces—allowing suspended algae to dominate and causing persistent green water issues.

UV bulbs should be replaced around every 12 months, depending on usage. Even if the light still glows, its effectiveness at killing algae diminishes over time. For Koi ponds, you may want to replace the bulb more frequently to ensure clear water, but for ornamental reservoirs with no fish, changing it once every 12-18 months is sufficient.

Cleaning methods will vary from filter to filter, but for guidance: Turn off the pump and electrical source, and remove the filter from the pond or filter box. Rinse filter sponges or media with pond water (not tap water) to preserve beneficial bacteria. Clean mechanical parts and reassemble the unit before restarting.